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[lithium210]

QUOTE(M4zinkaiser @ Dec 15 2009, 04:24 AM)

impressive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ohmy.gif) exactly how do you solder the yellow wire to the pin/nand?

very carefully!

[Chemodile]

For soldering the tsop leg, standard surface mount soldering practices apply. You'll absolutely need some flux (I use liquid, but paste would probably be nice here,) a small conical tip, and preferably a magnifying glass and/or microscope.

Cut your wire to size, strip the ends and twist the copper so that it doesn't strand off. Flux it, tin it, then flux it some more. Make sure your iron is tinned at this point too, but don't give it too much solder or you're going to risk bridging some of the legs. If you want more solder to make the connection, I find it's easier and more predictable to apply it to the wire rather than the iron.

Using a magnifying glass, flux the leg you want to solder and lay your wire down on top of it. Flux is tacky, so your wire should stick to the leg to some degree. (This is where the paste flux might come in handy) Be very patient at this point, you want to make sure the wire is sitting directly on top of that leg and not touching any others. Make sure that you're also not applying too much pressure to keep it there, or it may move somewhere else when you apply heat. Be patient until you've got it just right.

Holding the wire in place with one hand, very carefully put your magnifying glass down and grab your lightly tinned iron. Press down lightly on your wire for just long enough that the solder flows from your iron and wire to the leg. It shouldn't take more than a second, depending on how hot your iron gets. I use a 25w Weller Marksman, for what it's worth.

If you're more dexterous than I am you can use a continuity meter to check your joint, but I had a hard time getting my probes in the right spot and didn't want to risk pulling the wire off. I used a $10 pocket microscope from RadioShack to visually inspect it, making sure that solder had flowed around and under the wire to create a good bond, and that I hadn't bridges any nearby pins.

If you've never soldered a TSOP leg before I'd recommend practicing on an old motherboard or something, as this will let you experiment with techniques and you can figure out pretty quickly what works and what doesn't. Good luck!

[warduke]

QUOTE(Roamin64 @ Dec 13 2009, 12:37 PM)

Maybe that splash/short is somewhere that isn't powered until the console boots, so that's why you can plug your hd and light comes on , but when the whole circuit boots, it frags due to that short..

Good Luck

It was that..

Days after trying the X-Clamp and Heat Gun, I walked away from it.

Today, with fresh eyes and a clear mind I searched ever spot on the board.

There was indeed a solder splash.  Was very hard to spot and I wasn't even sure that it was indeed a splash until I put my solder on it to see what was truly there.

So thanks..  Just saved me some money!


I'll go back to modifying it another day.  For now, I just want to enjoy a working machine!

[funky26cro]

ok i got everything to get this working exept dont know where to connect it is that db25m connector same for serial port and paralel port dont know what pci card to buy and where to connect it ,its really misleading what pci card should i get ,serial or paralel becose that db25m connector looks it works on both of them i dident saw that connectors on pc for obout 10 years so anyone pls help what port shold i buy serial or paralel and are those db25 connectors same for serial and paralel ty in advance


oh and yea on how much wats should be those resistors i got 0.5w , 1w , 2w, 100 ohm resistors what best to use with this ty

This post has been edited by funky26cro: Dec 18 2009, 05:41 PM

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(funky26cro @ Dec 18 2009, 04:35 PM)

ok i got everything to get this working exept dont know where to connect it is that db25m connector same for serial port and paralel port dont know what pci card to buy and where to connect it ,its really misleading what pci card should i get ,serial or paralel becose that db25m connector looks it works on both of them i dident saw that connectors on pc for obout 10 years so anyone pls help what port shold i buy serial or paralel and are those db25 connectors same for serial and paralel ty in advance
oh and yea on how much wats should be those resistors i got 0.5w , 1w , 2w, 100 ohm resistors what best to use with this ty

This topic is called LPT NAND Dump. LPT = Parallel Port. Look at the hundreds of posts on dumping the NAND about what mode to use (SPP, EPP, ECP etc). There are enough clues to not have to spell it out.

As for resistors, 0.5w will to the job fine.

PS - if you're looking to buy a PCI card then save your money. You might as well buy an Olimex LPC-H2148 USB Header and use this instead - it'll take a fraction of the time and is much more accurate.

This post has been edited by Martinchris23: Dec 18 2009, 05:48 PM

[Antman1]

wanted to give props to sabbath_dude..  Great idea.  I didnt even think of doing this but my friend wanted me to try this and it makes it look clean and is easy to redo the flash if needed.  You go boy!  

[funky26cro]

ty for clearing it out martin ,however i see he does not use diode and says only use diode if not working with only resistors ,so puting that diode wont hurt only help i got some 1n4148 diodes , wana make it work with first go ,sry for my noobish questions never dumped nand before and want to make it perfect even got me self some ultra precise soldering iron from weller with 0.4mm conical tip

[jrh31]

Chemodile, what you use to cut those holes in your xbox?

[Chemodile]

Use a dremel on the plastic portion. I think sabbath_dude already mentioned the best way to cut the aluminum portion of the case was with a decent pair of shears. Personally, I started out with a dremel but found out pretty quickly that it's much faster and easier to just insert a paid of needle-nosed pliers into the ventilation holes and bend the parts of the metal you want to remove until it becomes brittle enough to snap off. Not nearly as noisy or messy.

[DanUK]

i got 82ohm resistors, would they be ok, doing this now as i type this and shops are closed  

[ATHiEST]

Hi guys, Ive seen a few people mentioning that flux is needed. Im not very experienced with soldering but have done this and that before. What im not 100% about is if i have flux solder do I also need to have seperate flux for soldering points etc?

What i have is "Cored Flux Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead Alloy" from ebay..  tinyurl dot com/ykvb98q

Is that for for purpose or would i also need separate flux?

Sorry if this as already been asked already.

This post has been edited by ATHiEST: Dec 23 2009, 04:29 AM

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(ATHiEST @ Dec 23 2009, 03:27 AM)

Hi guys, Ive seen a few people mentioning that flux is needed. Im not very experienced with soldering but have done this and that before. What im not 100% about is if i have flux solder do I also need to have seperate flux for soldering points etc?

What i have is "Cored Flux Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead Alloy" from ebay..  tinyurl dot com/ykvb98q

Is that for for purpose or would i also need separate flux?

Sorry if this as already been asked already.

You shouldn't need extra flux, but it just helps to flow the solder into the right places.

[tehloxely]

First part done! I hope I soldered ok *eek*. It doesn't look too bad. If not, I'll just have to re-solder.

(IMG:http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4427/sssssgr.th.jpg)

This post has been edited by tehloxely: Dec 23 2009, 08:15 PM

[W1zz]

Is it recommended to leave the motherboard inside the case to solder up or does this make it unnecessarily more difficult?

[Martinchris23]

QUOTE(W1zz @ Dec 23 2009, 11:24 PM)

Is it recommended to leave the motherboard inside the case to solder up or does this make it unnecessarily more difficult?

You don't need to remove it, but if you're doing this to JTAG the 360 you'll be removing r6t3 anyways!