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Author Topic: Key Switch <--------------------------------------  (Read 109 times)

lordvader129

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Key Switch <--------------------------------------
« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2004, 09:45:00 AM »
those are all for alternate power on switches

but, if you use the yellow wiere coming off that power on solder point it should work

and BTW, XIR = remote power, lol
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ShadowRaider

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Key Switch <--------------------------------------
« Reply #16 on: June 22, 2004, 09:47:00 AM »
QUOTE (lordvader129 @ Jun 22 2004, 06:45 PM)
those are all for alternate power on switches

but, if you use the yellow wiere coming off that power on solder point it should work

and BTW, XIR = remote power, lol

lol, um yea that yellow onw shoulld be the power and where to connect the other wire. 2 wires come out of a switch red and black...

red to that point, and black to...........


plz someone makeshure thatpoint it right
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FXRules

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Key Switch <--------------------------------------
« Reply #17 on: June 22, 2004, 09:47:00 AM »
Do you have a multimeter? If so, try testing all the yellow wires while turning the box on and off. If you don't then you can use a LED with a resistor soldered to it to see which lines are hot.
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ShadowRaider

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Key Switch <--------------------------------------
« Reply #18 on: June 22, 2004, 09:50:00 AM »
QUOTE (FXRules @ Jun 22 2004, 06:47 PM)
Do you have a multimeter? If so, try testing all the yellow wires while turning the box on and off. If you don't then you can use a LED with a resistor soldered to it to see which lines are hot.

i might, lemt me check, but do u just check all the yellow wires?

is the power comming out 1 wire for the eject and power, because both have to be disabled.
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ShadowRaider

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Key Switch <--------------------------------------
« Reply #19 on: June 22, 2004, 09:52:00 AM »
QUOTE (FXRules @ Jun 22 2004, 06:47 PM)
Do you have a multimeter? If so, try testing all the yellow wires while turning the box on and off. If you don't then you can use a LED with a resistor soldered to it to see which lines are hot.

no LED and i have a electric tester, will that work?
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #20 on: June 22, 2004, 09:57:00 AM »
QUOTE (ShadowRaider @ Jun 22 2004, 06:40 PM)

user posted image


wont i have to clip the wires, cus then if i dont then its justed connected to the power but if clicped it stops current....


and i just looked t my box and the power fir the eject and the power are from 1 wire.
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FXRules

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« Reply #21 on: June 22, 2004, 09:58:00 AM »
If it has a little wire comming off of it with an aligator clip and pointed screwdriver like body with light inside then yes. Just hook the aligator clip to any ground and touch the solder pads one at a time. If the light lites than there is power on that pad.
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #22 on: June 22, 2004, 10:04:00 AM »
QUOTE (FXRules @ Jun 22 2004, 06:58 PM)
If it has a little wire comming off of it with an aligator clip and pointed screwdriver like body with light inside then yes. Just hook the aligator clip to any ground and touch the solder pads one at a time. If the light lites than there is power on that pad.

see the pic above the last 4 on the left light up.


starting from the left while the xbox is off,

1 says connection (probally ground cuz when i touch the clip and the point together it says connection)

2 has vontage

3 says connection

4 has vontage

and everything else nothing happens
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FXRules

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« Reply #23 on: June 22, 2004, 10:07:00 AM »
Can you take it apart to see where the traces are running too? One of them has to be going to the power switch. But like the last guy said, what about the eject button? This may be a bit more complicated doing it this way. Try the 3.3v Stand by line. It won't fuck your board up, I would cut it, wire the switch in temporarily, try it and see what happens.
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #24 on: June 22, 2004, 10:12:00 AM »
QUOTE (FXRules @ Jun 22 2004, 07:07 PM)
Can you take it apart to see where the traces are running too? One of them has to be going to the power switch. But like the last guy said, what about the eject button? This may be a bit more complicated doing it this way. Try the 3.3v Stand by line. It won't fuck your board up, I would cut it, wire the switch in temporarily, try it and see what happens.

well yea but i think the eject button and the power are running off the same power line my box is open... i dont want to cunt anyting unless its the right wire...
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opjose

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« Reply #25 on: June 22, 2004, 10:13:00 AM »
Actually this may be quite easy.

Check the tutorial on the wireless remote on/off switch.

I'll bet you can merely tap the same lines to keep the Xbox OFF when the switch is in use.
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #26 on: June 22, 2004, 10:14:00 AM »
the 1st 2 ren to the power and the next one are to the LED and the eject are to the last ones an the right side


AS WHAT I CAN SEE, BUT NOT 100% shure
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #27 on: June 22, 2004, 10:24:00 AM »
http://www.xbox-scen...rticles/xir.php Thats the link, i if thats the power wire for both the eject and power then i know what to do otherwise im lost..
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ShadowRaider

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« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2004, 10:32:00 AM »
can anyone verify that is the power wire for the eject buttonand the power botton, if so ill i have to do is cut it and im homw free..
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FXRules

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« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2004, 10:36:00 AM »
The power button pin is the second from the bottom on the front panel PCB.

Check out the site for the infrared mod:

XIR Site
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